Woven fabric and mode of weaving same.



n. 629,292. Pamt'ea my la, |899. H. HAnnwlcK.

WGVEN FABRIC AND MUDE 0F WEAVING SAME.

(Appleston ledvleb. 7, 1899.)

2v sums-Sheet l.

(No Model.)

11. f. fr

Ik; n

H. HABDWICK. WDVEN FABRIC AND INDE 0F WEAVING SAME.

(Applicatian Bled Feb* 7, 1899.) v (No Rudel.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 2. l

lo. 629,292. Patented Iujy I8, |891 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

I-IARRY HARDWICK, 'For PHILADELPHIA,PENNSYLVANIA; AssIcNoR To Tru; IvINs, merz a METZGER coMPANY, or SAME PLAcn.

WOVEN FABRIC AND Moos-,0F wEAv|NjG SAME.

SPECIFICATION forming part lf-Letters Patent' No. 629,292, dated JuIyIS, 189e.

Application filed February 7, 13899. Serial No. 7045829. No specimens) To al?, whom it may concern,.- K

Be it known that I, HARRY IIARDWIGK, a citizen of the United States, residing in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, have invented Improvements in'VVoven Fabrics and Mode of Weavingthe Same, of which the following is a specification.

lvIy invention consists of a fabric Woven 'in one piece and having throughout some part or parts of its length a less number of Warp-` threads than in another part or other parts of its length, the invention also comprising a method of dropping out and reintroducing the Warp-threads Without materially complicating or delaying the Weaving operation.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure lis an exaggerated longitudinal section on the line fof the warp of a cut pile fabric made in accordance with my invention. Fig. 2 is a transverse section on the line a: x, Fig. 1. Fig.

' 3 is a transverse section on the line w fw,.Fig.

1. Fig. t is a'vieW similar to Fig. 1,-but.illus trating a special form of fabric made .in-y accordance with my invention. Fig. 5 is a sectional view of another form of fabric embodying the invention. Figs. 6 to 10 are diagrams illustrating themode of Weaving the fabric, and Fig. 11 is a side view of part of a separater-bar which I prefer to employ incarrying out my invention.

In Fig. 1 the portion of the fabric marked 1 may represent the center or body portion of a Woven rug, and the portions marked 2 may represent the end or border portionsfof said rug. In a fabric of the character shown the pattern or pile is formed by the Warp-threads, and it is frequently desirable to employ in the border's'patterns of a much more elaborate character and requiring a greaternuinber of colors than the pattern of the center or body portion of the rug. For instance, there may be as many aseight different threads in each set of warps required for the borders, While one, two, or three Warps may be sufli cient for the body portion.- Hitherto in Weavll ing this class of fabrics it has been generally considered necessary to employ full sets of Warp-threads throughout the entire length of -the fabric, the Warp-threads which were not employedin forming-the pattern in the body of the fabricbeing buried at the back of the same; It is thiswasteof expensive Warpthreads which it is the'object of. my invention ers.

to overcorneand -I accomplish thisobj ect by discontin uing. ,the patterning; warp threads throughout that portion of the fabric in which they are not required in the formation of the pattern: Thus, supposing a fabric to be divided transversely into successive sections, some of these sections Will have a greater number of. patterningWarp-threads thanoth For instance, the sections 2 of the fabric shown in Fig. 1 each contain patterning warp-threads 3 in sets of eight, While in the 'section 1 of the fabrick live of the Warp-threads` 3 have been dropped from each set, the re- 'mainin g three threads being all that arenecessary for the production of the desired bodypattern. There are also binding warp-threads 4 in'pairs alternating with the sets of pattern- ,ing warp-threads and .binding Weftrthreads 5, the latter being disposed in sets of three each, forming the Well-known three-shot binder used'in Weaving pile fabrics. .r

In dropping aWarp-thread from the fabric it is Vpreferably carried up into the pile, or if it be a cnt pile into one of the tufts, so that it will be in position above the fabric,tWhere it is accessible for being cut off, although if .the fabric is Woven upside down-that -is to say, with the pile-Wires on the under side of the Warp-threads instead of above the samethe dropped Warp-threads may be cut oif on I the back of the fabric and not carried Ainto the pile, the back of the fabric in this case being the part which is uppermost in weaving, and yconsequently the ypart which is kaccessible for ithe Apurpose of cutting out the Warp-threads Afdesired to be dropped.

Anyv desired backing-warp may be used in Vthe fabric as in an ordinary pile fabric.

In 4the fabric shown in Fig. 4a .heavy jute Warp-thread 6 is used in thebody'portion of the fabric to take the place'of the patterning Warp-threads which have been dropped,fso

4that the fabric will .havesubstantiallynniyform thickness throughout, and such thread may be used in place of or in addition tofor.- dinary backing warp-threads. 'y

' In Fig. 5 I have shown my invention aslapplied to what is com monly termed a'4 damask carpet fabric, in which the pattern is formed by warp-threads 3a, inclos'ing studer-W'efts 7, the Warps being tied down between these stuffer-Wefts by means of Wefts 8. In this IOO case the superfluous Warp-threads 3 are cut off abruptly at the line of junction of the.

body and border on the back of the fabric.

The method of Weaving the fabric shown in Figs. 1, 2, and 3 is illustrated in Figs. 6 to 10 of the drawings and is as follows: In these figures 10 represents the lay of thelooin; 11, a spiked take-np roll occupying the position of the usual breast-beam; .12, a yarnspool; 13, a guide-Wire, over which the patterning Warp-threads pass, and 14 a Weight hungin a bight of each patterning warpthread between the spool 12 and guide-Wire 13. The patterning Warp-threads are controlled by harnesses 15 and the binding Warpthreads by harnesses or lieddles 16. The fabric is Woven as usual until a border is completedwhereupon the harnesses controlling the patterning Warp-threads Which are to be dropped are raised, as shown in Fig. 6, so that said threads are out of action, and they are held in this position during the weaving of the body portion of the fabric, which continues with the remaining patterning Warp-threads. After the Weaving of the body of the fabric with a limited number of patterning Warp-threads has continued for a number of picks a notched bar 17, such as shown in Fig. 11, is inserted horizontally beneath the raised warps, as shown by dotted lines in Fig. 7, and then raised up to a vertical position, and thus retained by suitable supports, as shown by full lines in said Fig. 7, so as to collect the warp-threadsin bunches at the bases of the V-shaped notches of the bar, this operation at the same time separating the bunches of threads, so that the Weaver can observe the operationl of weaving which is being carried on below them. During the time that the border of the fabric is under control of the spiked take-up roll 11 the raised and inoperative patterning Warp-threads will be drawn forward with the fabric, the weights 14 being lifted as the slack of the threads between the spools 12 and guide-Wires 13 is taken up; but after the border portion of the fabric has passed beyond the control of the spiked take-up roll 11, as shown in Fig. 8, the strain upon the raised or inactive Warp-threads tends to pull the free portion.

of the fabric back over the portion which is being woven and carried forward by the take-up roll, and this operation will be continued until the folding back of the Woven fabric is arrested by contact of the same with the notched bar 17, as shown in Fig. 9, or until the strain upon the raised warp-th reads is relieved by the Weights 14 reaching in their descent a suitable support. As the weaving of the body portion of the fabric proceeds a loop of such fabric is formed, depending from the take-up roller 11, and this loop of fabric may be held under any desired degree of tension by the insertion of a rod or bar 18-as shown in Fig. 9, forinstance. Vhen the desired length of body fabric has been Woven, the bar 17 is removed, so that the border portion of-ihe fabric can be drawn forward to the beating-up point, as shown in Fig. 10, and the inactive harnesses 15 are then drawn into action again, so as to proceed with the Weaving of another border portion of the fabric, until the entire number of patterning Warp-threads which were held out of action during the weaving of the body portion of the fabric have been woven into the fabric again, whereupon the connection between those portions of the Warp-threads contained in the newly-Woven border and the portions contained in the previously-Woven. border may be cut and the folded portion of the web thus released, or the entire piece may be Woven before cutting the connections between the patterning warp-threads in successive border portions of the fabric.

One of the main advantages of my invention is that it provides forthe dropping out and reintroduction of patterning Warp-threads Without any material change in or addition to the ordinary loom and without requiring any special skill on the part of the Wc'averor material lessening of the production of the loom, while the saving of the expensive patterning warp-threads throughout all that portion of the fabric in which their presence is not required very materially cheapens the product Without any corresponding lessening of its marketable value, since the durability ofthe fabric is not dependent upon the numberof threads which lie buried in the backing, but more upon the durability of the pile-surface, which is not materially affected by my improved met-hed of Weaving the fabric.

I have shown my invention as applied to the Weaving of Ya eut pile fabric, the pilewires 2O being so formed as to cut the loops formed over them as theyare withdrawn from the fabric, and the notched bar 17, being inserted at the point'where the pile-Wires are Withdrawn, serves the additional function of raising vthe inactive patterning Warp-threads IOD IIO

above the pile-Wires, so that said threads Will not be cut by the pile-wire as it is withdrawn. It Will be observed on reference to Fig. 1 that where vera patterning Warp-thread is dropped from the fabric it is carried to the face and appears in a pile-tuft, and, if desired, the single strand of yarn formed by thus raising the patterning-warp may constitute the piletuft at that point instead ofa double strand formed by looping the pile-Warp around the pile-wire, or the pile-thread Which is to be put out of operation may be raised with the thread which is to form the pile-loop at that point, in Which case the thread which is to be put out of action will add to the bulk of pile-tuft at the point Where it is raised.

In an uncut pile fabric or even in a cut pile fabric the upstanding ends of the cut Warpthreads which have been dropped from the fabric may, if desired, be cut out of the fabric after the completion of the same, and instead of raising the pile-threads individually to put them out of action at different points in the fabric the Whole body of Warp-threads 'whichlis to be dropped may be lifted simultaneously at the line of junction of the border and body of the pattern ,and may be introduced bodily in the same Way.

. In producing the fabric with the stulferl Warp-thread 6 in the body portion, as shown in Fig. 4, said stutter warp-thread may be controlled by a special heddle and introduced continuously during the weaving of the fabric, being allowed to remain down continu'- ously during the weaving of the border portions of the fabric, so as to float on the back of the 'fabric throughout these border portions, whereby it can afterward be conveniently cnt od, or it may be woven into the border portion of the fabric, if so desired.

In producing the damask fabric (shown in Fig. 5) the upside-down method of weaving before referred to ispreferably adopted, so that the patterning Warp-threads not used in the body of the fabricivill extend from one borderlportion to the other folded-'back portion on the back of'the fabric which in this case is uppermost in the loom and can be severed without being carried to the face Vor.

under Sider of the fabric, where ina fabric of this character their presence might be ob- ,Y

jectionable.

In cases where the discarded warp-threadsv are wound on. beams instead of spools ythe fabric may be drawn forward by thetake-up mechanism until the Aentire length of fabric with the lesser'nu'mberof warp-threads has v been woven, whereupon the folding back of the fabric may beeifected by a backward turning-of said ywarp-beams until the previously-woven portion ofthe fabric containing all of the warp-threads has been drawn back to the 'beating-up point to permit the discarded Warp-threads to be again introd uced into the fabric.

While it will doubtless be preferable in most if not in all cases to drop out of action certain warp-threads of each set, complete sets of warp-threads may without departing from my invention be dropped out of action in order to obtain the desired result. Thus alternate sets of the warp-threads or one set in three may be thus dropped ont.

My invention in its broadest embodiment is not limited to patterned fabrics in which the warp-threads form the pattern, as it can be adopted in weaving plain fabrics in which a greater bulk or thickness is needed in some parts than in others.

Having thus described my invention, ,I

tinued throughout part of the length of the fabric.- Y

3. A fabric woven in one piece, with pattern formed by the warp-threads, and having some of said patterning Warp-threads extending throughout the entire length of the fabric, and others discontinued throughout part of the length of the fabric, and replaced by an independent thread or threads which is discontinued throughout those portions of the fabric'where the-full number of patterningr warp-threads is employed.

4t. A lpile fabric woven inone piece with Ypattern'formed by the pile-threads, and having some of said pile-threads discontinued throughout part of the length of the fabric, each pile-thread, before being discontinued, passing to the face of the fabric.

5. A cutpile fabric woven 1n one piece, with Y patterns formed by the pile-threads, and having some lof the pile-threads discontinued throughout part of the length of the fabric, each pile-thread before being discontinued,

passing to the face of the fabric and uniting with other pile-threads to formpile-tuft-s, substantially as specified.

6. Themode herein described of Weaving a fabric having a greater number of Warp-- threads in one portion of its length than in ylesser number of Warp-threads, reintroducin g the inoperative Warp-threads into the fabric,

.and severing said threads where they pass from one portion of the fabric to the other,

substantially as specified.

7. The mode herein described of weaving a fabric having a greater number of warpthreads in one portion of its length than in another, said mode consisting in moving and maintaining out of action the surplus warpthreads, laterally separating linto groups said inoperative warp-threads, and holding them thus separated du ring the weavin g of that portion of the fabric having the lesser number of warp-threads, folding the fabric back upon itself so as to bring that portion of the fabric from which the threads were removed up to the last-woven portion of the fabric-containing the lesser number of warp-threads, reintroducing the inoperative threads into theV fabric, and severing said threads where they pass from one portion of the fabric to the other, substantially as specified.

Intestimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification inthe presence of two subscribing witnesses.

p HARRY HARDWICK. Vitnessem FRANK E. ABECHTOLD, Jos. H. KLEIN.

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